The first thing you notice about the Hřebeny Highlands is the wind. It's sharp, cold, and usually carries a dry grit that lets you know you're in a different kind of microclimate. Most people think of Central Bohemia as lush and green, but Hřebeny sits in the "rain shadow" of the higher Brdy Mountains, making it surprisingly dry and significantly cooler than the surrounding valleys.
This long, forested ridge stretches from the edge of Prague all the way southwest. I hit the trails here mid-morning, aiming for the high points. It's only a short trip from the city, but it feels like a different country. This isn't the kind of dramatic, jagged mountain range that makes it onto travel posters. It's more subtle—rugged hills, tough pines, and a history that's hidden in the soil and stone.
The Knight and the Commuters
The lower slopes are still mostly agricultural, but the villages are changing fast. Towns like **Mníšek pod Brdy** and **Řevnice** have become massive residential hubs for people working in Prague. In fact, Mníšek has seen its population grow by over 50% in the last twenty years. It's a strange mix: you'll see someone turning the soil in an old field while their neighbor is jumping on the S7 train line for an office job in the capital. It's a reminder that even in these old landscapes, people are always finding new ways to adapt.
But the "true" owner of these woods isn't a commuter. Local legend tells of **Fabián**, the Lord of the Brdy Mountains. He was supposedly a knight who was cursed by a vengeful witch and turned into a spirit. He's said to live on a rock formation called *Fabiánova lože* (Fabián's Bed) on Velká Baba hill. If you hear a strange, melodic whistle while you're hiking alone in the woods, that's just Fabián checking in on his domain. It gives the quiet forest a bit of a supernatural edge.
Bunkers and Biodiversity
As you get higher into the hills, the forest takes over. This is the heart of the Hřebeny, and it's a lot wilder than it looks on a map. The highest peak is **Písek** at 691 meters, but most hikers head for **Studený vrch** (660 m) to climb its stone lookout tower. Because large parts of these ridges were hard to reach, they've become a sanctuary for some of the country's most elusive animals, including the Eurasian lynx.
The area also has a darker, modern history. Hidden in the woods near Mníšek pod Brdy is the former **"Klondajk" missile base**. Built during the Cold War to defend Prague, it was once the largest anti-aircraft base in Czechoslovakia. Today, the massive concrete silos and bunkers are still there, some used for industrial research, others just slowly being reclaimed by the forest. It's a strange contrast—walking through a peaceful ecological corridor that used to be a high-alert military zone. The region is now part of the **European Green Belt**, a nature network that spans 24 countries along the former Iron Curtain, turning a symbol of division into a line of conservation.
The "Olympus" of the Highlands
If you want the best hike in the area, head for **Plešivec**. Known as the "Olympus of Brdy," it was the site of a prehistoric hillfort and offers views that stretch for miles. There's even a flooded quarry nearby called the "Emerald Lake." Late in the afternoon, I was coming off a ridge trail when I came across a few neighbors sitting around a low fire with some bread and beer near a group of old cottages.
They waved me over, and we spent an hour just talking. Mostly they told stories about the land—old family histories and bits of folklore that have been passed down for generations. This area is famous for its oral traditions, and seeing it in action was one of the highlights of the trip. Even with all the modern changes, that core community spirit is still there. It's what keeps the Highlands from just becoming a nameless suburb of Prague.
Jan's Pro-Tip: The Skalka Pilgrimage
Don't miss the **Skalka** complex above Mníšek pod Brdy. It's a beautiful Baroque pilgrimage site with a chapel and a monastery perched right on the edge of the ridge. The view of the town below is incredible. After your hike, do what the locals do: grab a beer. **Hostinec U Dernerů** in the nearby village of Kytín has its own microbrewery and is a favorite stop for hikers. If you're heading back to Prague by train, **U Rybiček** in Řevnice is right by the station and is the perfect spot to wait for the S7.
Walking back to my car, I realized that Hřebeny is all about the layers. You've got the 89-million-year-old geology, the ancient legends of Fabián, the concrete shells of the Cold War, and the modern families looking for a quieter life. It's a tough, dry, beautiful place that doesn't give up its secrets easily. If you go, bring layers—that wind is no joke. The Hřebeny Highlands is a place where the past is always talking to the present; you just have to be quiet enough to hear it.
